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The craft that dressed Mughal empresses and still belongs at every Indian wedding.
If you have ever worn a piece of jewellery and received the kind of compliment that makes someone reach out and touch it, there is a good chance it was Kundan. There is something about the way Kundan catches light that no other jewellery quite replicates. That warm, rich, layered glow comes from a process that is over two thousand years old and still done almost entirely by hand.
Yet most people wearing Kundan today cannot explain what it actually is, how it is made, or why a genuine piece costs what it does. This guide answers all of that.
Where Kundan Comes From
Kundan jewellery originated in the royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat, with roots going back to around 300 BC during the Vedic period. The word "Kundan" itself refers to highly refined gold, 24 carat pure, used to set uncut gemstones without the use of claws or prongs.
The craft reached its peak under the Mughal emperors. The courts of Akbar, Jehangir, and Shah Jahan were famously obsessed with jewellery, and Kundan became the defining art form of royal adornment. Skilled artisans called Kumhars and Sonis were brought from across the subcontinent to work in the imperial ateliers of Delhi and Agra. The Naulakha haar and the elaborate jewelled sarpechs worn by Mughal nobility were almost all Kundan work.
After the decline of the Mughal empire, the craft migrated back to Rajasthan and parts of Gujarat, where it has been practised continuously ever since. Cities like Jaipur, Bikaner, and Nathdwara remain the heartland of authentic Kundan craft to this day.
It is not a trend. It is a tradition that has survived 2,500 years, multiple empires, and the arrival of mass-produced fashion jewellery. That is not an accident.
How Kundan Jewellery Is Actually Made
This is where most guides stop at a surface level. Understanding the process is what helps you recognise the real thing.
Authentic Kundan jewellery is made through five distinct stages, each handled by a specialist craftsperson.
Ghaat (framing the base): The jeweller begins by constructing a base frame from lac, a natural resin material. Lac is soft, workable, and slightly heat-sensitive, which is what makes the setting process possible. The frame is shaped by hand according to the design.
Khudayi (setting the gemstones): This is the defining step of Kundan. A foil of 24-carat gold is pressed into the lac base, and then the uncut gemstones, typically glass, quartz, onyx, or precious stones, depending on the piece, are set directly into the gold foil. No claws. No prongs. The gemstone is held in place by the gold itself, which is pressed and smoothed around it by the artisan using a fine tool called a kanth.
Paadh (polishing the setting): Once the stones are set, the gold foil is further burnished to create a seamless surface with no visible gaps between the stone and the metal. This stage requires extraordinary patience. Any error at this point means the stone has to come out, and the process starts again.
Meenakari (enamel work on the reverse): The back of Kundan jewellery is almost always finished with Meenakari, the art of applying coloured enamel to metal. This is why genuine Kundan pieces have a beautifully decorated reverse side. The back is considered equally important to the front, which is one reason why traditional Kundan is worn in such a way that the reverse is visible, such as chandbalis that swing and turn.
Jadayi (final assembly): The finished sections are assembled, cleaned, and strung together with gold wire, silk thread, or pearl strands, depending on the design. Pearls are the most traditional accompaniment to Kundan.
The entire process for a single necklace can take anywhere from three days to three weeks, depending on its complexity. No two pieces are identical.
Kundan vs Polki vs Jadau: What Is the Difference?
These three terms are used interchangeably by sellers who do not know better, and by buyers who have been misled. They are not the same.
Kundan uses refined 24-carat gold foil to set gemstones. The surface is smooth, and the gold has a high-shine, warm finish. The stones are typically coloured glass or semi-precious stones.
Polki uses uncut, unpolished diamonds set in gold. Polki is rarer and considerably more expensive than Kundan because the stones are natural diamonds. If someone is selling you "Polki" at a price close to Kundan, it is not Polki.
Jadau is the technique of embedding the stone directly into the gold without any foil, using a mechanical pressing method. It is primarily practised in Rajasthan and produces a heavier, denser setting than Kundan. Jadau pieces tend to have a more antique appearance.
The simplest distinction: Kundan uses gold foil and set stones. Polki uses uncut diamonds. Jadau embeds directly into solid gold.
How to Spot Real Kundan vs Fake
The market for imitation Kundan is enormous. Here is how to tell the difference.
Check the reverse side: A genuine Kundan piece will always have Meenakari enamel work on the back. The colours will be rich, detailed, and hand-applied. An imitation piece will have a plain, often painted or stamped reverse with no real enamel depth.
Look at the stone setting: In real Kundan, there are no claws, no prongs, and no glue. The gold wraps smoothly around each stone. In fake versions, you will often see tiny metal claws holding the stones, or you will notice uneven gold edges where the setting has been pressed unevenly.
Feel the weight: Authentic Kundan pieces have a satisfying weight from the lac base, the gold foil, and the stones. Very light pieces that feel hollow or plasticky are a clear sign of imitation.
Examine the stones: Real Kundan uses glass, quartz, or semi-precious stones with depth and clarity. Cheap imitations use plastic or low-grade resin stones that look flat under light. Tip the piece under a light source and watch how the stones respond. Authentic stones refract light in multiple directions. Plastic does not.
Ask about the metal base: Genuine Kundan uses a gold or gold-plated base with a lac interior. If the seller cannot tell you what the base material is, be cautious.
Price is a signal: A handcrafted Kundan necklace that takes three days to make cannot be sold for two hundred rupees. If the price seems too good to be true, it reflects what the piece actually is.
How to Wear Kundan and When
Kundan is traditionally a wedding and occasion jewellery, but modern styling has expanded what that means.
For weddings, a full Kundan set with matching earrings, maang tikka, and nath is the most traditional choice and remains the gold standard for bridal jewellery. The richness of Kundan reads beautifully in photographs and holds up across different lighting conditions, from outdoor ceremonies to indoor banquets.
For festive occasions like Diwali, Navratri, or Eid, a single Kundan choker with a plain outfit can elevate an otherwise simple look entirely. You do not need the full bridal stack for a festival.
For contemporary styling, Kundan pieces work surprisingly well with Western outfits. A Kundan choker with a solid-colour dress or a silk top is a combination that has been popular for a few years now and shows no sign of fading.
Storing Kundan properly matters. Because the base contains lac, Kundan pieces should be stored away from heat and direct sunlight. Keep them in separate fabric pouches to prevent stones from scratching each other. Wipe gently with a soft dry cloth after each use. Avoid perfume and water directly on the piece.
Why Ajnaa's Kundan Deserves Attention
Ajnaa Jewels has been working with Kundan craftspeople for over 70 years. The pieces in the Kundan collection are not mass-produced. They are sourced from artisans who have inherited the craft across generations and who still work through the same five-stage process described above.
When you buy a Kundan piece from Ajnaa, the Meenakari on the reverse is real. The gold finish is consistent. The stones are set without claws. That is not a marketing claim. It is visible in the piece the moment you hold it.
Explore the Kundan Collection at Ajnaa
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Kundan jewellery real gold?
Kundan uses 24-carat refined gold foil for the setting, but the base is lac resin rather than solid gold. Most Kundan pieces today are gold-plated, not solid gold.
Can Kundan jewellery be repaired if a stone falls out?
Yes. A skilled Kundan artisan can reset a loose or fallen stone. Avoid attempting home repairs as the lac base is heat-sensitive and can warp easily.
Is Kundan jewellery safe for sensitive skin?
Quality Kundan with a gold-plated base and lac interior is generally skin-safe. Ajnaa pieces are specifically crafted to be skin-friendly and anti-tarnish with regular wear.
How is Kundan different from temple jewellery?
Temple jewellery originates from South India and typically features deities and motifs in gold with ruby and emerald stones. Kundan is a North Indian craft with a distinct setting technique and Mughal-influenced design vocabulary.
Can Kundan jewellery get wet?
No. Water weakens the lac base over time and can damage the enamel on the reverse. Remove Kundan pieces before bathing, swimming, or heavy physical activity.
Why does Kundan jewellery have decorated backs?
The Meenakari on the reverse is a traditional mark of craftsmanship. Historically, the back of jewellery was visible during movement, especially for earrings and pendants, so artisans finished both sides with equal care.
